Thursday, November 5, 2026

20261104 Wednesday, November 4, 2026; Heading Home Santiago de Compostela to Seattle via Vigo, Madrid, and Philadelphia

20261104 Wednesday, November 4, 2026; Heading Home Santiago de Compostela to Seattle via Vigo, Madrid, and Philadelphia

We ended up purchasing enough souvenirs that our single large suitcase was well over the 50# limit for domestic luggage, so we did have to reconfigure our luggage by pulling out a gym bag to use as a carry-on and expand one of our carry-on rollers to fit all our stuff into.
  
The hotel had a breakfast waiting for us in a library room adjacent to the lobby with bananas, apples, yogurt (pre-packaged single-serve spoonable and also drinkable), potato chips, and sandwiches (ham and cheese with lettuce and tomato).  It is interesting that these European hotels pack us ham and cheese with lettuce and tomato instead of a sausage and egg McMuffin or croissant sandwich for breakfast. 

This hotel also had Nespresso machines that use a drop-in foil disk to make espresso that can then be diluted to an Americano with hot water.  This was the case in the restaurant where we had breakfast yesterday and in the library where we had our take-out breakfast.  In our room, all we had was an electric kettle with packets of instant coffee and tea bags.

There were only four of us headed to the airport in Vigo this morning.  We left the hotel at 5:30 a.m. in a large Sprinter-based minibus that could have seated 20, so we were comfortable.  The airport had a nice business class lounge that we nearly had to ourselves.  We could have had second breakfast there, but were content to just raid the candy jars. 




The flight from Vigo to Madrid was on a small CRJ that was basically an extended business jet with single-class seating.  The business class cabin was just the first 4 rows and a curtain behind the seat top, and the only service differential was a glass of champagne or orange juice.  The entire jet was 4-across seating.  

We had a 2-hour layover in Madrid, which we spent chasing all over the airport to figure out how to get our VAT refund on souvenir purchases.  Earlier in the trip, a Viking guide made it sound easy where you just scanned your receipts and the VAT would get refunded to the same credit card used to make the purchase.  However, that only worked if the shops gave you a special export VAT form with a bar code, which none of the shops we bought at did.  So we just had a pile of credit card receipts that were no use, and made a voluntary donation to the EU’s social programs paid for via the VAT.


After running around in the terminal chasing after the VAT refund, we had about a half hour to kill in the lounge which was still very nice, but much busier than Vigo’s.  





Our flight from Madrid to Philadelphia spent over a half hour sitting at the gate with the door closed before it started its roll towards the runways.  There never was much of an explanation for the delay.  Fortunately, we had a 3-hour layover in Philadelphia, which could absorb the delay without problems.  

The American Airlines flight was on a 787 Dreamliner.  Our business class seats were individual pods that fully reclined into beds, but we were surprised by how little accommodation there had been made by Boeing on this particular plane variant for storage within the pods.  For example, there was no place to put your shoes that wasn’t in the way of getting in or out of the pods, and no place to store the blanket, pillow, and noise-reducing headset case other than in a messy pile at your feet.  The business class pods on Delta’s and Emirates 777’s were much better thought out and functional.



The pods were also arranged in an odd way so that some pods faced backwards.  Our pods were adjacent in the middle of the fuselage, and we had to lean way forward to see each other to talk or pass things between us.  On Delta’s pods, with a movable privacy barrier lowered, it was just like sitting next to each other.  But across the aisle from Ben’s pod, there was a backwards-facing pod with an odd woman seated in it, and the way the pods were oriented, both passengers were in direct line of sight the entire duration of the flight.  It was awkward because this woman appeared to be an Instagram influencer who was recording on her iPhone modeling her flight attire (athletic bra and sweatpants) and extreme Mara-Lago plastic surgery face.


Ben ended up watching “Bad Apple” starring Saoirse Ronan and “Hades Town”, a Broadway musical to keep distracted before sleeping for a few hours.  Both movies earned a thumbs up from Ben.  

Sleeping on the westward-bound flight was a bit forced because the plane is basically keeping pace with the Earth’s rotation as it flies westward, so it was like mid-morning daylight the majority of the trip.  The Dreamliner did its best to simulate an accelerated nightfall and dawn.  When we touched down in Philadelphia at 3:30 p.m., it was 9:30 p.m. Madrid time, so sleeping on the 8-1/2-hour flight was taking an afternoon nap.  



We had to clear customs and immigrations, but that was a breeze with the Global Entry associated with our NEXUS passes.  We did have to claim our bags, but then dropped them back off on the other side of immigrations.  We did have to go through TSA security screening en route to our departure gate.  We did spend some time in the AA Lounge in Philadelphia waiting for our PHL to SEA flight. 




Our 6-1/2-hour Philadelphia to Seattle flight would have been the natural time to sleep for us because it left Philadelphia at 6:30 p.m., which was 12:30 a.m. Madrid time, but this domestic business class flight had seats that only reclined 10 degrees but were only 4 across, so they had more hip and shoulder room.  



When we arrived in Seattle at 9:30 p.m., it was 6:30 a.m. the next day in Madrid.  It’s too bad we didn’t have the planes switched around so we could have slept properly from Philadelphia to Seattle when our bodies really wanted to be sleeping. 

We did luck out in our Philadelphia to Seattle flight, which arrived a little early, so we were able to make our schedule last Whidbey shuttle for the day.  If the flight had been delayed, we would have been stuck for the night and arranged for a hotel room or rescue driver. We got home at 1:15am November 5, so it took a bit over 25 hrs to make it home.

Traveling to and from trip destinations is always the price to be paid for the experiences the destinations provide.  We had remarkably nice weather during our entire time in Spain and Portugal, and it was a terrific trip which we would recommend highly.  We met some very enjoyable fellow travelers during the course of this trip that made it all the more enjoyable and memorable.  

Now we’ll have to do some laundry and get our gears reset for our next trip, which will begin in December.  

We booked a Rhine River Christmas Markets cruise on Viking to start our long winter adventure, but just received notification from Viking that record low water levels have forced Viking to substitute our voyage for one of identical duration but on the lowland waterways of Belgium and the Netherlands.  Instead of sailing from Basel to Amsterdam, we will sail from Brussels to Amsterdam.  This will avoid the necessity of ship swapping and extensive bus touring off stranded ships on the Rhine. We will get to unpack once and remain on the same ship throughout the sailing. They are offering 25% future cruise credit and $125 onboard spending as consolation for the altered itinerary. Fortunately, it still ends in Amsterdam, so the rest of our onwards travels will remain unaffected by the cruise substitution.  It will remain to be seen if Christmas in the lowlands can be an adequate substitute for the Rhine Christmas markets.  

Tuesday, November 3, 2026

20261103 Tuesday, November 3, 2026; Santiago de Compostela

 
20261103 Tuesday, November 3, 2026; Santiago de Compostela

The Viking-included excursion for this extension was a 2-hour walking tour which took us back to the center of the old town and through the Cathedral.  

The weather has turned cooler, dropping into the upper 40s at night and rising to the mid-60s during the day.  We have been very fortunate regarding the weather as Mariola says it usually starts raining in November and doesn’t stop until April.  The 10-day forecast shows rain starting Friday and continuing through the remainder of the 10-day forecast.  

It turns out the problem with our room’s air conditioning is that the air conditioning for the entire hotel is shut down in October, so we had to rely on opening the window and door to get our room cool enough to sleep.  The privacy bolt with a rolled-up towel kept the door open enough for cool air from the hallway to blow the hot air in our room out the window.  Fortunately, this time of year, there’s usually no problem with mosquitoes, and we were not bothered by any last night.  

The hotel’s breakfast was just OK.  Their version of bacon is cut thin and shaped like American bacon, but has the texture of magazine stock— very chewy and hard to eat.  They did have some cubes of almond cake, which is a regional specialty.  The hotel has them on sale for €23 for a 6” diameter cake.  It is good, tasting like marzipan but with the texture of a moist coffee cake.  The hotel relies on Nespresso disks to make coffee, although there is also a drip coffee maker carafe nearby.  Unfortunately, there was no automated espresso drink maker like the ship or other hotels had at their breakfast buffets. 
 



In addition to being cooler, there seems to be more wind today, so an extra layer would have been nice.  Our walk to the Cathedral took a different route so that we could get a better view of the Cathedral from a park nearby.  This park is at the top of the same hill that the Cathedral sits on, so we did have to climb a bit initially to get up to the park. There was an enormous eucalyptus tree on the edge of the park with the best view of the cathedral and city center.  There is a dense oak forest in the park as well.  





Since the park was at the top of the hill, we ended up approaching the Cathedral from a different direction along a fairly flat elevation.  There are quite a few art sculptures along the path in the park.





There was a colorful statue of two petite women at the edge of the park.  This painted bronze statue memorializes a pair of sisters (Maruxa (María de la Asunción) and Coralia (María Coralia) Fandiño Ricart - Two Marias) who walked through the Alameda park every day at 2 p.m. in colorful hand-stitched fashions.  



Their brothers were forced into exile for opposing the fascist Franco regime.  The sisters faced persecution and abuse because of their brothers’ liberal activities, but they became local icons of the city from the 50s to 70s.  They passed away in the 1980s.  

We are at the very tail end of the pilgrimage season, and while there are a lot of people in trekking gear, and some porters lugging huge piles of backpacks around the city, the square in front of the cathedral was sparcely populated.  In the summer, at the height of pilgrimage season, it can nearly be standing room only in the square.





The Cathedral has evolved over the ages, having gone from a utilitarian Romanesque style to having later Baroque and Gothic elements added over the years.  What had stood as the cathedral in medieval times was off to the right of today’s main cathedral, shrouded in scaffolds and tarps.  It is undergoing restoration in preparation for a big celebration in 2027.  The added Baroque style elements usually emphasize symmetry and perfection, but the pediment at the top of one corner pillar seems to be malrotated several degrees. 


Left corner Baroque oopsie.

A statue of St James (Santiago) stands at the center of the Baroque facade, flanked by two of his disciples. 




The main entrance to the cathedral is actually through a side gate that is currently also undergoing restoration, so we entered from another entrance covered in tarps and scaffolding between the old and newer parts of the cathedral.  The oldest tower, which is the one shrouded in tarps and scaffolding, is a clock tower.  The two towers of the main newer cathedral are bell towers. 

There are other towers that seem a bit out of place in the complex that have a unique square stepped shape which may have been influenced by Aztec and Mayan architecture from the Americas.

Aztec or Mayan vs Baroque

Our tour inside the cathedral started at the back of the Cloister where the public bathrooms are located (of course).  There is what appears to be a set of spare bells sitting in the vast courtyard.  




The next two stops in our tour did not allow photography.  These were the library and museum.  The library contained ancient bound volumes, most of which were handwritten, and many in giant font sizes that would allow an entire choir to read them from a distance.  We learned that the pyramid-shaped structures we have seen in other cathedrals are just fancy book stands for these giant volumes.  

There were also a pair of silver incense burners (Botafumeiro) nearly 2 meters high.  One of these is hung from the center of the cathedral and swung in a 65m arc, reaching speeds of 68 kph and heights of 21m.  When filled with charcoal and incense, they weigh 80kg.  Legend has it that on July 25, 1499, Santiago’s Day Mass, the rope broke mid-swing while Catherine of Aragon was present, sending it crashing out the window.  Well, myth busters dug a bit deeper into the legend and found that it just smashed into the south door, and not out through the rose window.  Still, videos of the swinging Botafumeiro are insane.  


Why did they send this 80kg smoldering orb flying through a crowded cathedral at 68kph?  Word has it that if you fill a cathedral of that size with thousands of pilgrims who have just trekked over 100km without a bath, there was a great need for a great deal of incense to cloak the smell of body odor.

There are all manner of gold and silver ecclesiastical accoutrements used in ceremonies in the cathedral museum, another area that forbids photography.  A centerpiece of this collection is the jewel-encrusted silver cape that the statue of St. James used to wear at the center of the Cathedral. This statue sits above the tomb containing his remains, and it is customary that pilgrims are allowed to walk behind this statue to give St. James a hug from behind.  However, when the church began noticing bits of the silver and jewels disappearing from the cloak, it was put into safe storage while an imitation was left out to face the public.  

Courtesy Museu Santiago de Compostela website

There is also a chapel filled with holy reliquaries attached to the museum.  These reliquaries boost the spiritual power of the Cathedral like the ultimate collection of power-ups.  

The Cathedral itself is huge and a mixture of styles blending Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque periods in various portions of the structure. 
 









The central altar featuring a statue of St. James wearing the gem-encrusted silver cape in closed within a box at a distance looks a bit like the Zoltar fortune-telling machine from the movie Big, but if you watch closely, you can see people moving around behind the statue.  At first, we thought these might be artists working on restorations for the big upcoming 2027 celebration, but in fact, anyone can give St. James a hug.  

We were taken first on a tour under the central altar into the crypt where a massive silver reliquary contains the remains of Santiago.  



Then we emerged from the opposite side of the crypt and climbed a steep staircase to end up directly behind the statue, which is life-sized.  No photos are allowed in this area, but there is a pedestal behind the statue that allows pilgrims to step up and put their arms around the statue’s shoulders.  

An enterprising pair could arrange for one to stand at the ready at the end of the cathedral with a telephoto lens while the other peered over the statue’s shoulder for a selfie with the Saint.  But that wasn’t to be us today.

While we were visiting, there was a professional film crew shooting footage for some sort of program.  This caused a bit of congestion in places, but the crew did move quickly and efficiently, getting what they needed with minimal takes.  This wasn’t some Tom Cruise shooting with motorcycles blasting through the cathedral, but it might have had him swinging from a flaming Botafumeiro.  


Our local guide “Micky” did point out the convent behind the cathedral where nuns remain cloistered from contact with the outside world, but who are at least partially funded by baking almond cake and cookies.  

These are sold from a tiny window at the back door of the convent where you have to ring a bell and a nun slides open a tiny wooden window.  You place your order and she disappears for a moment, then reappears with your order in a plastic bag and a credit card reader in hand.  






It was a little like ordering takeout from Harold’s Chicken Shack in Chicago where your order gets taken through a bullet proof glass partition and your order appears on the bullet proof turntable.  Gotta protect those nuns’ virtue.  But it was kind of ironic to see this tiny nun in this medieval nunnery holding a tap to pay credit card terminal. 
 
We wandered down to the office where pilgrims are given their certificates of completion, but there was some serious security and no one without the requisite stamps of proof was allowed to even peer inside the office.  But it looked like any other administrative facility like a post office from what we could tell.  

Not pilgrims.

Bagpipers welcome pilgrims to Cathedral Square

We headed back to the hotel and got in a nap.  At night, we ventured out back into town and had a seafood platter for two at Sant-Yago, just a short walk from yesterday’s restaurant.  They opened for dinner at 7pm, and we were the first ones in the door. It was quite the feast.  They did bring out a nice crusty bread with cheese and pepper jelly to get us started, but in Europe, these items get added to the bill.  





On the walk back to the hotel, we walked by a laundramat next to a small hotel.  We were suprised by how nicely decorated and inviting a place it was. 



Tomorrow, we will have to have our luggage out by 5 a.m., and head to the airport in Vigo by 5:30 a.m.