Wednesday, August 20, 2025

20250820 Wednesday, August 20, 2025. Seoul City Tour with Denny

20250820 Wednesday, August 20, 2025. Seoul City Tour



We really didn’t need to set any alarm clocks because in our jet lagged state, we could barely keep our eyes open at 9pm, but were wide awake by 4am.  
The rooms are equipped with high tech toilets that have seat heaters, bidets and even blow driers.  

There is a foot light that comes on automatically when you enter the bathroom at night, and the toilet even flushes itself automatically.

Another interesting room feature was emergency evacuation rappelling harnesses and ropes stationed under the desk by the windows.  We were on the third floor, so I guess that wouldn’t necessarily be terrifying, but it is amazing how prepared Koreans are for any eventualities.

John and Franklin walked around the block doing reconnaissance and found lots of restaurants all around the block, including a 24hr restaurant that was just a few steps down the street.  Called the Ssada Kitchen, it has a self service kiosk near the entrance with selectable English menus and took several payment options making it easy to use.  So instead of having a mediocre overpriced American breakfast at the hotel, we had a Korean breakfast.  There were plenty of locals eating there.  In addition to having a kiosk for orders, the tables had chopsticks, spoons and napkins in a drawer that slid out of the side.  One of their specialties is Gimbab, which is like a sushi roll with nori wrap and various fillings.  Omelets were served over a heap of fried rice and with a protein of choice on the side.  Ben ordered shrimp which deep fried with heads and tails, but the shells had been removed from the elongated bodies, and they were quite tasty.  






John said the scene had changed from the night life which was quite active when he and Franklin walked around the block.  During the early morning hours, supplies were being delivered to the various shops and restaurants.  Ben saw someone netting live fish out of a tank in the back of a truck to deliver fresh to a seafood restaurant.  One thing we didn’t see were tons of people walking their dogs or dog poo on the streets like in many other global cities.  There was, of course, a Starbucks within a few hundred feet of the hotel.  

The Sungnyemun Gate is less than a block from the hotel entrance. This 14th century structure was one of 8 city wall gates, and was the southern border of the city.


Our Tours By Locals guide Kun-Yong Y, who goes by “Denny” showed up early with a clean Hyundai Grand Starex minivan with 4 captains seats in the back and Ben riding shotgun.  It was certainly nice to be driven around in an air conditioned minivan when the temperature outside was in the mid to upper 80’s with partly cloudy skies and muggy conditions.  

Special parking mirror for very tight spaces. 

Tours By Locals Seoul Guide “Denny”

Our first stop was the Cheonggyecheon, a 7 mile urban waterway park which replaced an extinct historical river and elevated highway.  It was controversial ripping out a major east-west congested elevated highway, but the green space and water feature brought significant revitalization to the area and greatly improved the quality of life in the core of Seoul.




Next we visited Gwanghwamun Square featuring a statue of Sejong the Great, who invented the Korean alphabet in the 15th century to bring education to the masses.  With between 50,000 and 100,000 characters, Chinese was a language strictly for the elite.  



Nearby, construction of a temporary monument commemorating 80 years of liberation from Japanese occupation during WWII was being set up.  


From there, we walked to the Gwanghwamun Gate, guarding the Gyeonbokgung Palace.  We got to watch a changing of the guard ceremony, complete with a marching band and colorful costumes.  All around the Gate were female foreign tourists wearing traditional Korean dresses, apparently inspired by K-pop dramas set in the era.  These outfits can be rented from many shops all over the tourist areas.  
Rather than walk around the hot and humid outdoors palace, we opted to see the adjacent air conditioned National Palace Museum of Korea, which housed artifacts from Korea’s imperial era. 







We then headed up to the rooftop of the Nation Museum of Korean Contemporary History, which featured a sweeping view of the Palace grounds and surrounding mountains.  Seoul is surrounded by several mountains. Hidden within these mountains is a city wall encircling Seoul like a miniature Great Wall of Seoul.  The city gates are remnants of this city wall.  To learn more about this, we next saw the Seoul City Wall Museum, and climbed a bit of the wall next to the Eastern gate.  Much of the wall has disappeared, but city walls were a big thing during the medieval era.  



To the northeast of the imperial palace is a neighborhood that once housed the workers who kept that palace running called the Bukchon Hanok village.  It is in a hilly area with winding and twisting narrow streets showcasing late 19th century Hanok architecture.  We were dropped off at the top of the hill and wandered our way down to the bottom of the hill, peering into the narrow and twisting alleyways and streets.  There were lots of foreign tourists in costume taking Instagram selfies in front of some of the buildings.  Throughout most of Seoul, neighborhoods like these were demolished to make room for more efficient high rise apartments, but this neighborhood had been home to high ranking administrators within the palace.  It has become a tourist attraction because it is a frequent filming location for Korean dramas.  Local residents have begun to rebel and have recently imposed tourism curfews to help them preserve their sanity.





  

We had lunch at a traditional Bulgogi and Beef Rib soup restaurant. I’d have to say we must have pretty decent Korean restaurants back at home because the food was virtually indistinguishable from what we have had in American Korean restaurants. 
 

After lunch, we headed down some very narrow and winding alleys into the Insadong Korean Cultural Street, a neighborhood that had been notable for its involvement in much of the paintings and printing work required of the Imperial government.  It is now home to lots of galleries, shops and restaurants. While we were there, there was a civil defense drill with alerts on our cell phones and lots of emergency response vehicles on the streets. We didn’t have to do anything during the drill, but Denny told us that they used to compulsory for all civilians during earlier administrations. Back then, civilians had to head into shelters and get off the streets.  







We returned to our hotel and walked the short distance to the Namdaemun Market, which is a warren of narrow alleyways, outdoor and indoor malls, and thousands of shops selling every imaginable ware.  We were hoping to find Lithium polymer battery banks with the (CCC) marking now required by Chinese domestic air carriers, but discovered that not even Seoul, with its proximity to China, had any power banks for sale with the (CCC) marking.  Many of the indoor malls were crowded with Korean women engaged in shopping. 




On a nearby hill is the iconic Namsan Seoul Tower.  There is a free funicular that takes visitors from the bottom of the hill to an upper level where a paid gondola ride carries visitors to the base of the tower.  Instead of going to the top of that hill, we went through a tunnel under it to get to the Banpo Bridge, which is a double deck bridge across the Han river.  The lower level is dedicated to a bicycle pathway connected to an extensive riverfront park.  Next to the south end of the bridge is a complex of floating venues for shows and events.   A film crew was just wrapping up a shoot at one of the venues as we drove by. There are nightly light and water works shows along the riverbank. 
 



A Buddhist temple in the heart of Seoul was our next destination.  This one is surrounded by a vast garden of Lotus flowers.






Our last stop was a drive by past the Blue House, or Korean Presidential mansion.  It is currently undergoing renovation and is unoccupied, but interestingly enough, they don’t allow photography of the Blue House from the front approach.  We did get to stop and take photos at a water fountain with a Phoenix, symbol of the royal family, with one of Seoul’s mountains in the background.  




We returned to the hotel hot and tired, but felt that we had really covered a lot of Seoul in just one day.
  
After resting up briefly, we walked to the Myeongdong Market, which is a huge outdoors mall and market, larger than the Namdaemun market, and open much later.  Lots of street food vendors had set up their carts in the streets of the market.  There was a lot of food on sticks as well as other street food items including a lot of things we had seen on YouTube videos, such as fish shaped baked goods with sweet fillings like red bean paste, and Takoyaki, octopus filled dough balls.
 






We found a Korean Barbecue restaurant and had dinner there.  Aside from the use of huge chunks of charcoal that still looked like wood, it was again very similar to what we had experienced in the US for Korean Barbecue. 
 
We stopped by the South Gate for some photos on our way back to the hotel.  
We check out early tomorrow and head to Incheon airport to fly into Shenyang, China tomorrow.  We have arranged for the same Jumbo taxi driver who brought us to this hotel to take us back to the airport at 7am.  We’ll have to repack the suitcases before calling it a night.  



Tuesday, August 19, 2025

20250818-19 An Asian Wedding and Adventure Begins

20250818-19 South Korea and China Trip


Our daughter Ciara had her wedding 2 weeks ago but because her new In-Laws have extended family in China, she is also doing a wedding in Shenyang, China.  This is in the northeast part of China, and is adjacent to North Korea.  Our last trip to China was in 2006, before the Beijing Olympics, so we figured it was time to go back to China.  Viking Cruises has China tour itineraries that include overland excursions so following the Chinese wedding ceremony, we will take a high speed rail train from Shenyang to Beijing and see a few tourist sights there, and then join the Viking Cruises pre-cruise extension overland tour to Mongolia before flying from Mongolia to Hong Kong to board the Viking Yi-Dun ocean cruise ship.  This ship will take us down the Chinese coast to Beijing (Tianjin) with 7 ports of call, including an overland excursions to Fujian Province and an overnight stay in Shanghai.  From Beijing, Viking will fly us to Chengdu, Lhasa (Tibet), and Xi’an (terra cotta warriors) before returning us to Beijing for our flights back to the US. 

In order to get to Shenyang, we will fly into Seoul, South Korea, and spend a day touring Seoul and getting over jet lag, before continuing on to Shenyang, which is a fairly short flight from Seoul.  

Some of our immediate family will join us for the Shenyang wedding and Beijing tour. China has recently implemented a 10 day visa free tourism option so most of them will be heading back to the US within that 10 day window.  Because we will be taking the Viking Cruise and overland tours, we did have to make a trip to San Francisco to obtain real Chinese tourism visas.  

We flew business class while our children John and Price are flying economy along with Ben’s brother Franklin.  The plane was a 777-200.  The business class pods were certainly nicer than economy or premium economy, with seats that convert into lie flat beds, but the age of this plane is apparent from the outdated entertainment system and lack of in-flight WiFi.  The business class pods we have more recently flown in on Delta and Emirates were nicer and more up to date.  Both of those had Bose noise canceling headphones and free inflight texting, while this flight has basic over the ear headphones without noise cancellation.  

The flight attendants all appear to be young and attractive Korean women.  On Emirates, we were surprised to find that the flight attendants were mostly Filipino, but in retrospect, it makes sense that Arabs in the UAE routinely hire foreigners to work in the service industries, so their staffing is more like what you’d find on cruise ships. 
 
The meal service in business class was good with cloth napkins and steel utensils.  The dinner was served within the first hour of the flight.  The first course was a salad with fancy greens, stone crab claws, prosciutto, melon and a selection of fancy rolls.  There was a choice of a salmon, beef tenderloin or chicken breast entree, served with wine and sides of asparagus and potatoes.  We both had the tenderloin, which came out medium rare with a tiny bit of mushroom gravy.  The meat was properly prepared but a little bit grisly.  The tenderloins we had on the Princess and Oceana cruises tours were better, but these were OK.  The entrees were followed by both a fruit and cheese plate and chocolate mousse with a port wine and coffee or tea.  
The cabin was dimmed and the window blinds were pulled after the meal service, even though it was full daylight outside.  





It’s hard to know how to best deal with traveling over multiple time zones and jumping over the International Date line, but these international air carriers would know best.  We got off the ground about a half hour later than the original scheduled departure of 2:30pm.  So we left Seattle at 3:00pm on Monday.  We arrived  in Seoul at 6:30pm after about 11 hrs in the air.  

We had a second meal service which would have been around 9pm Seattle time with a choice of sandwiches or ramen.  Most people went for the ramen which was spicy. 
The lights came up about an hour before landing, which would have been around 2:00am Seattle time for third and final meal service with coffee and juice, salad and Janet had Beef stroganoff while Ben had a shrimp congee. 
 
We got through customs about 7:15pm.  The customs counter was well staffed and we encountered no trouble getting through.  All of our bags made it to Seoul without a hitch.  We picked up a Jumbo taxi at the taxi stand, which just barely got all our luggage in the back.  If we had brought one more suitcase, it would have ended up in someone’s lap.  But the Jumbo Taxi had 4 luxury leather captain’s seats in the back and Ben rode shotgun in the front.  It took a little over an hour to get from the airport to Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul.  The roadways were very modern and extremely well maintained.  The fare was 87,800 KRW, which is $63 USD.  That seems super reasonable for an hour ride with 5 passengers and a huge pile of luggage.  

Luggage Tetris

Hyundai Grand Starex minivan.

The hotel front desk staff spoke fluent English and got us all checked in quickly.  They did take photocopies of all of our passports.  The rooms we got are actually huge suites with a partitionable queen bed on one end, and two twin beds in a studio apartment with washer/dryer, full sized refrigerator/freezer and induction cooktop.  The apartments are furnished with pots, pans and even a rice maker so it would be quite possible to do all our own cooking.  The Hotels.com fare did not include the breakfast but there is a hotel restaurant that offers a full American breakfast for $23USD.  



We were able to contact our Tours By Locals Seoul tour guide through WhatsApp to confirm our 9am pickup for a full day tour tomorrow.  
Franklin and John headed out into the night to explore the neighborhood around the hotel while the rest of us pretty much showered and crashed.  We’ll be sure to set alarms for the morning.

Friday, May 2, 2025

20250501 Thursday, May 1, 2025. End of Our Clamming Season

20250501 Thursday, May 1, 2025. End of Our Clamming Season

The weather could not be more perfect for camping.  We woke to blue skies and calm winds.  We decided to hit the beach early to try to get home before the worst of the traffic.  The low tide was at 9:52am at -1.6'.  We were on the beach at 8am, and had our limits by 8:45.  Getting to the beach before the bottom of the low tide may have been advantageous because the clams may be making shows that disappear over time as the tide drops.  We were able to spot more shows today, although many looked like holes rather than the classic donuts in the sand.  It was such a beautiful morning, there could be no more drastic contrast to some of our earliest razor clamming days when it was raining sideways.  





We got back to the RV and shucked the clams, putting them on ice in the refrigerator and then breaking camp.  We were on the road at 10am.  We did stop at Dairy Queen in Aberdeen for lunch at 11am.  We dumped our holding tanks in Montesano.  There are 4 lanes of trailer dump sites, but only one is open, so we had to wait in line. Fortunately, there was only one rig in front of us.  


Then we made a  brief refueling stop at the Lacey Costco, and a final refueling stop at the River Rock at the Angel of the Winds Casino exit.  We pulled up behind a huge class A RV that to our surprise was being filled up with gasoline and not diesel.  The owner says it takes 80 gallons to fill it up.  We're glad we have a more economical diesel that only takes 24 gallons to fill up.  




There was a bit of traffic heading into Seattle, but fortunately, the express lanes were open so we were able to bypass much of the building traffic.  There was also traffic in Everett, with much of it heading to Snohomish and Marysville.  


Ben took a brief detour to stop at a closed state patrol weight station to see what weight we are actually driving around with.  The RV had a full load of water, LP and diesel, as well as Janet on board.  The total weight of the RV was 11,300 pounds, which is slightly over the 11,030 rating.  The Bronco  with a full tank of gas and some gear surprisingly weighed in at 5200 pounds, which was significantly heavier than what Ben thought it might weigh.  So we were probably 8% over the rated weight.  But we were well under the rated axle weight ratings, and closely monitor tire pressures, engine and transmission temperatures, and don't drive that aggressively.  Still, we need to be more conscious about unloading unnecessary gear from the RV and Bronco.  


We arrived home at 4pm.  It was a bit different doing our clam processing in our kitchen instead of the RV.  Janet did some fresh fried razor clams with panko and seasoned bread crumbs that were tasty and tender.  It is quite a bit of work and mess to bread and fry them, but they are a treat.  


While there are additional razor clam openers days during the Spring, our Senior Off Season WA State Parks pass is now expired, and May 1 marked the opening of ling cod fishing season, so Ben and Price will be getting out on the Pacific Skiff to see about catching some fresh ling cod.  Halibut season is also under way, although halibut is a much less productive pursuit in Puget Sound.  Spot prawns will also open later in May, so we will be quite busy working our local waters .  We did get our money's worth out of the Senior Off Season WA State Parks Pass, and will likely buy next year's version.  We have become pretty adept at camping with the RV in all weather conditions and are getting some good use out of the RV.