Wednesday, July 25, 2018

Tuesday, July 24, 2018- Epilogue: Our luggage finally arrives.

Tuesday, July 24, 2018- Epilogue

I decided to write an epilogue because it took so long for our luggage to be reunited with us.  The official story is a baggage handling conveyor belt failed in Paris, causing a massive backup of luggage.  We might have expected a one or two day delay, but it took a full 9 days for our luggage to be delivered.  From the tracking information, it appears our bags spent at least 5 days stuck in Paris.  The two smaller bags took a slightly different route than the one medium sized bag, arriving on Monday, or 8 days late.  They were delivered by a gal driving her ancient red Ford Mondeo.  She is an independent contractor to the airlines, sort of like an Uber, but without troublesome passengers.  Just delayed baggage.  UPS delivered the medium sized suitcase today.  So, we didn’t end up losing any of our possessions, although we were without our “A” clothes, travel gadgets, and electric toothbrushes for over a week.  It’s sure a good thing we didn’t have anything perishable packed in our checked luggage. We now think of the few times we’ve sent visitors home with bricks of frozen crab meat.  That would have been an absolute biohazard situation to have had a few pounds of crab meat rotting in a suitcase for 8 days.  


We also learned to our great disappointment that the double onboard spending credit offer was only applicable if we had booked a Panama or Caribbean cruise while still on the Regal Princess.  We wrote to Princess Customer Relations to see if they would still allow us to get the  extra onboard spending credit, but alas, no response so far.

Monday, July 16, 2018

Sunday, July 15, 2018; Disembarkation and the Long Journey Home

Sunday, July 15, 2018- Disembarkation and the Long Trip Home

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After an early breakfast, we had an effortless Princess transfer from the ship to the Copenhagen airport.  Our luggage had made the trip in advance and was waiting to be picked up at the airport with free luggage carts to take them to the airline check-in counters.  There was a huge line at the Air France counters- several hundred people long, but on our arrival, there was a dedicated “Princess Cruises-Air France” check in counter for those whom had used the Princess airport transfers and EZ-Air.  Easy-peasy, as Janet would say.  We just walked up to that window and voila, our luggage was tagged and on its way to Seattle.  

Smoking Booth at Copenhagen Airport

We had no trouble getting through security and to the gate.  However, just as we were starting to board our short hop from Copenhagen to Paris, we received alerts on our Apple Watches and iPhones that our Air France direct flight from Paris to Seattle was cancelled.  We spoke with the flight attendants in flight, and they reassured us that Air France would make it right somehow and not to worry.  Well, on arrival in Paris, we received a follow up email detailing that Air France had rebooked us onto a flight from Paris to Atlanta, and from Atlanta to Seattle.  Instead of arriving in Seattle at 2:51PM, we would be arriving at 9:50PM.  We had to scramble to get our Whidbey Sea-Tac shuttle reservations changed, which we were able to do via wifi and email.  
The flights that were rebooked kept us in Premium Economy seating, but we were no longer sitting next to each other.  On the transatlantic leg, a single passenger was willing to change seats so that Janet and I could sit side by side.  While the seats had fancy foot rests, video monitors and power, it was still just bearable to get through the 8 hour flight.  It was certainly better than the economy seating, but at this point, for a transatlantic flight, economy is simply cruel and unusual punishment.  

To add insult to injury, the Air France flight from Paris to Atlanta was 30 minutes late to depart.  We already had a tight connection without that delay.  Then on arrival, we learned that we would have to claim our bags and clear customs before we could continue on to make our Seattle connection.  We saw that the boarding time for the connecting flight was 6:25PM.  We didn’t get off the plane from Paris until 6:00PM.  We had to struggle through the crowds to literally run to customs and immigrations area.  There was a huge line there already, presumably from an earlier flight, but thanks to our Nexus card membership, which includes Global Entry, we were allowed to bypass the line and go to the Global Entry Kiosks, where there was no line.  

From there, we ran to the baggage claim, where we waited for our bags to come out.  It was 6:27 by then.  After about 200-300 bags came out, ours not amongst them, an overhead announcement was made for us and about 25 other passengers to see the Delta Agent across from the Carousel.  Well, there was no Delta sign anywhere, but there was a desk with a big Korean Airlines signboard above it.  On closer inspection, there was a Delta employee sitting under the Korean Airlines sign.  She informed us that our bags had failed to make it onto this plane, and would be sent to Seattle directly on a different flight.  So we just had to finish the customs and immigrations process and then find the gate for our connecting flight.  

Well, it turns out that our flight was leaving from a gate that was a 5 minute train ride away.  So we ran to the train, and then ran from the train to our boarding gate, where boarding was well underway.  We were sweating and breathing hard, because we were afraid we were going to miss the flight.  Well, we made it onto the plane, even if our luggage hadn’t.  Again, we weren’t seated together.  We were two rows apart and on opposite sides of the plane in middle seats.  Ben sat between two young men who were fine seat partners for the 6 hour flight, but poor Janet, ended up next to a man who shook his leg for nearly the entire 6 hour flight. She imagined if this were a cartoon, or Hollywood movie, she would have taken a thin dagger and stabbed it through the man’s leg to pin it to the seat.  But she managed to survive that bizarre form of slow torture.

In Seattle, we stopped at the Delta Baggage Customer Service desk and file a claim for our missing luggage, which she assured us would arrive sometime Monday, and then be shipped UPS to our home in Oak Harbor sometime Tuesday.  It’s a good thing we didn’t have anything irreplaceably essential in our checked bags. Laundry will just have to wait couple more days.

Our Whidbey Sea-Tac Shuttle got us to Oak Harbor at 1:15AM, so we were in or home by 1:40AM on Monday, July 16, 2018.  Boy, that was a long trip for us to get home.  Enroute via the plane from Paris to Atlanta, we did hear the FIFA World Cup score at the end of each quarter from the Pilot and flight crew, who were super excited to win the World Cup after beating Croatia.  We wonder if our first flight crew had cancelled the Paris to Seattle direct flight so they could stay at home and watch the World Cup finals. That added 11 hours to our return trip time, and the tight connection caused by Air France’s 30 minute late departure from Paris added a lot of anxiety and discomfort.  That’s another airline to avoid in the future.  

Overall, this was a very memorable and enjoyable Baltic Cruise on the Regal Princess (Just have to erase memories of the Air France flights and the struggle to get back home).  We would highly recommend the ship, itinerary, and excursions that we did, including the SPB-Tours.com company, which saved us a lot of money over similar Princess Excursions and featured much smaller tour group sizes.  We would recommend travelers considering this itinerary to spend at least one more day in Copenhagen than we did.  We certainly saw a LOT, but were rushed for time and could easily have spent another full day to see the highly acclaimed aquarium and a few other museums.  

We seem to have picked the best time of the year because we had PERFECT weather throughout the entire trip.  The seas on the Baltic were calm throughout the entire trip with whitecaps and 2-3 ft seas only on the very last leg of our trip, which weren’t enough to even be felt on the Regal Princess.  

The buffets in the Regal Princess were noticeably better than on any prior Princess or Norwegian ship we have been on.  There was vastly more variety and the selection changed frequently.  It also feature a taco bar and an Asian noodle bar on occasion.  There was also a Brazilian churrasco night featuring a variety of spit roasted meats like the Fogo de Chão restaurant chain.  

The fare in the main dining room was not any different than our prior Princess cruises aside from the lobster dinner being much better on this Regal Princess, but the Buffet was certainly a step up.  We were disappointed with our dinner at Sabatini’s, but since that was thrown in for free with our Carnival Shareholder benefit, we won’t put too much weight on that. In the future, we’ll choose the Crown Steakhouse or Crabshack options for premium dining instead. 

While we didn’t receive the Ocean Medallions on this trip because the Ocean Medallions are basically in a beta testing stage, the internet service was remarkably better than on any prior cruise experience.  Having decent internet available really changed our port of call experiences because we didn’t have to spend any time at all looking for Wifi.  That really made our ports of call much more relaxed and enjoyable.  

The new on-demand video system took a while to figure out (the Back Button is your friend), but was also a big improvement in the in-stateroom entertainment experience.  The navigational display was also vastly improved.  However, the news from CNN, MSNBC, and FOX remains as biased and depressing as always, so it’s best to just avoid news during any cruise.  

Since Ben swapped out the magnetic clasp Milan Loop watch band on his Apple Watch for the non-magnetic Nike sport band, he never had to have his or Janet’s room card reprogrammed even once during the entire cruise!  Apple Watch wearers, take note, because on the 60d S. America cruise, Ben had to take his room card to the passenger service desk at least 20 times for reprogramming until he figured out the magnetic clasp was the problem.  

With fewer days at sea, there was much less emphasis on trivia games, but we still ended up with a stash of wine bottle stoppers, Regal Princess coasters, Champagne, string backpacks and notepads.  We also passed on the Paper Airplane and Egg drop challenges.  There is always so much to do on these ships that there is never a dull moment unless you actively schedule time for doing nothing.  


We did make another future cruise deposit, and Princess is offering to double the value of on board ship spending credit for Panama and Caribbean cruises completed before July 2019.  So now the hard question is:  Where to Next?

Saturday, July 14, 2018

July 14, 2018, At Sea Stockholm to Copenhagen

Saturday, July 14, 2018- At Sea, Stockholm to Copenhagen

To view photos associated with this blog, please go to:
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For the first time during this cruise, there are whitecaps on the water, but the seas remain light and the sky is partly cloudy.  There are occasional freighters and wind turbines visible as we cruise 20 miles off the southern shore of Sweden.  We started to pack up our clothes and gear as we got dressed and ready for breakfast.  We attended the 9AM general trivia, playing with John, Dave and Sarah. We only managed to score 12/20.  The winners scored 15/20.  We then attended a presentation in the Princess theatre featuring an interview of some of the Princess dancers, singers, and stage crew. It was interesting to see them demonstrate some of the stage “magic” including disappearing floor lifts and tracks, and the LED backdrop and wings.  There are also “flies” that drop down from above the stage, which extends 4 stories above the stage floor.  We had previously toured the Green Room on the Coral Princess, so we skipped that part of the tour to rush back to the James Bond Trivia.  

We arrived late to the James Bond trivia, so we joined a pair of women who are the mother and sister of one of the Cruise Director’s staff with the 5th question.  We ended up scoring 20/25.  There was a single young man who managed to score 24/25, winning himself a coaster for his troubles. They had some tough questions like which movie featured London’s Millenium dome and what was Alec Trevelia’s 00 number.  

We had lunch in the buffet, which seemed extra crowded for some reason.  We then attended the last general knowledge trivia of the cruise at 3:15PM, playing with an Angie and Bernie from Toronto, and Dave from Virginia.  We only scored 14/20, but managed a win with that score.  We opted for string bags to pack our shoes in. 

Ben got in one last workout in at the Fitness Center and we finished packing up everything aside from what we would be wearing tonight and tomorrow, and packing with us in our backpacks onto the plane.  Ben had to complete our Air France check in at the Internet Cafe because our iOS Air France Aps had a glitch that wouldn’t let us complete our check in.  

We had our last dinner in the dining room, opting for a Chicken and Leek pot pie (A Curtis Stone Specialty item) that was quite tasty, and a decent New York Strip Steak.  We had to leave before dessert to catch the last music trivia, which was on Motown.  This time, they scored not only the title and artist, but also the year of release for each song.  We did well on the titles and songs, but blew it on the years of release, only getting one exactly right.  We scored 39.  The winning team scored 40-1/2 out of 60 possible.

We rushed up to our room to weigh and then put out our suitcases.  Then we went back to the dining room and had dessert.  They had baked Alaska, including a parade, but the parade just isn’t as much excitement with LED tea lights instead of sparklers on the Baked Alaska as they parade it through the dining room. 

We then watched the second show put on by the MacDonald Brothers, which featured more pop music selections including numbers by Simon and Garfunkel, Charlie Daniels Band and the Proclaimers.  It was another high energy and entertaining show.  

Our last stop was to pick up some sandwiches for our flight tomorrow in the International Cafe.  We finished up one bottle of champagne and will leave the other as a gift for our room steward.   We watched the Alicia Vikander Tomb Raider movie in our room before calling it a night.  Silly, and far fetched, but that’s what Hollywood is churning out these days.  


We have to be up at the crack of dawn to disembark the ship by 6:15AM to make our 9AM flight from Copenhagen to Paris, and then from Paris back home to Seattle.  Better set an alarm clock.

Friday, July 13, 2018

Friday, July 13, 2018- Stockholm, Sweden

Friday, July 13, 2018- Stockholm, Sweden

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The approach to Stockholm involves picking your way through an archipelago of thousands, if not tens of thousands of little islands.  It never really got completely dark last night, and we had to pull the curtains to get it dark enough inside the cabin to sleep.  We began passing all sorts of little islands during the wee hours of the early morning.  

We had breakfast in the buffet as the ship was getting tied up, and we could see the Pacific Princess was also in town, tied up on another wharf a few piers down from us.  We had no trouble meeting up with the SPB-Tours representatives, who were actually in the terminal building this time.  We drove around Stockholm, learning that it is situated at the junction between an 80 mile long lake, and the sea.  There are locks that separate the fresh from the salt water.  The locks were undergoing extensive renovation.  We drove by their sports stadium, which looks a bit like a Roman Colliseum on the outside, and which hosts hockey and football (Soccer).  

Our first stop was Stockholm’s City hall, which looked like a medieval fortress, complete with keeps. This is apparently where Nobel Prizes, other than the Peace Prize are awarded.  We saw that the Peace Prizes are awarded in Oslo, Norway.  That leaves Physics, Chemistry, Physiology (Medicine), and literature.  A Nobel Memorial Prize in Economic Sciences (Swedish National Bank’s Prize in Economic Sciences) is commonly referred to as the Nobel Prize in Economics, it was not a prize established in Afred Nobel’s will in 1895, but it is announced and awarded much as the other 5 prizes are.  
Stockholm City Hall

Plaque depicting Nobel Physics, Chemistry, Medicine (Physiology) and Literature prizes


The City hall is on the banks of the lake in a majestic setting made all the more enjoyable by another day of perfect weather with temperatures in the mid 70’s and clear blue skies.  

Our next stop was a viewpoint overlooking the bay, into which the locks from the lake empty.  This bay is over 100’ deep, and was the location of the sinking of the Vasa, a 17th century 64-gun warship that was salvaged in 1961, and now is the centerpiece of the Vasa Museum.  
Stockholm Harbor


Our next stop was Gamla Stan, or Old Town.  This is the home of the Royal Palace, and surrounding village of narrow streets, churches, and endless shops.  We walked down the Västerlånggatan where the Målerås glassworks shop caught Janet’s eye.  They had some exquisite and expensive looking artworks in glass that looked like something we would have started collecting years ago, when we were collecting things.  Fortunately, we’re now in a downsizing stage, so that’ll save us more money for future cruise vacations instead.  

Målerås glassworks

We also walked around the town square, which features a Nobel Museum.  After having seen so many European “Old Towns”, it’s hard to get too excited about narrow winding cobblestone streets, just like seeing another European cathedral after having seen so many earlier in the cruise.  
Gamla stan, Stockholm

We also saw the smallest public monument of Stockholm, Järnepojke, or Iron Boy, or Little Boy Who Looks At The Moon, which looks more like a table centerpiece set in the middle of a small courtyard behind the Finnish Church.
Järnepojke, Iron Boy, Little Boy Who Looks at the Moon


Our final destination was the Vasa Museum, which houses a salvaged 17th century warship called the Vasa, which sunk in Stockholm harbor on it’s maiden voyage due to a design flaw that made it top heavy.  The king, at the time, had demanded that a second deck of guns be added to the ship.  When the ship heeled over in the wind, the lower gun deck ports become submerged and flooded, sinking the ship in 1628.  Because it sank in brackish water, it did not fall prey to shipworms, and was remarkably well preserved when it was rediscovered and salvaged in 1961.  It is an amazing ship, and after seeing it, it’s easy to see where the Pirates of the Caribbean movie series drew their inspiration from for the Flying Dutchman and Black Pearl.  


Vasa Museum
The woodwork is fantastic, and it is a huge wooden ship that was capable of hoisting 20 sails on its 3 main masts and bow spirit. It is 226’ long and 38’ wide with a Tonnage of 1,210 tones. She was crewed with 145 sailors and carried 300 soldiers.  Amazingly enough, only 38 men lost their lives when she went down in Stockholm harbor.  She was equipped with 64 guns.  There was an interesting turret near the stern that housed musketeers for close in battles.  

90 percent of the hull is original, while 70 percent of the stern and 80 percent of the bow are original because these had broken off the ship when she hit the bottom of the harbor.  We could have easily spent another 2 hours in that museum, but we had to rush through because our ship was scheduled to leave Stockholm by 2pm.  

Our SPB Tours team got us back to the ship with plenty of time in reserve.  Our bus driver was wearing a cast on his left arm, and was driving one handed.  When we asked what happened to his arm, he explained that some young thugs jumped him just outside his home trying to steal his smart phone.  He gave chase and got his phone back but fractured his ulna when the thug threw the phone back at him to make an escape.  Wow, we had no idea life in Stockholm could be so rough.  Speaking of rough, I forgot to mention that when we rode the subway in St. Petersburg, a man sitting across from us had a classic Glasgow smile scar, and certainly looked like someone who would be involved in a gang.  Anyways, the bus driver said his trip to the ER with X-ray and casting his arm cost him just $40.  That hidden side of that coin is Swedes pay close to 50% of their income in taxes. 

We enjoyed tea and scones as the ship made it’s way out of Stockholm harbor.  On it’s way out to the Baltic Sea, the ship started by following the Pacific Princess through a maze of hundreds if not thousands of islands. Many of the smaller islands are no more than glacially carved granite mounds covered with trees, not unlike a scene from the San Juan Islands, except greener.  There were some impossibly small islands that had houses on them.  

There were also lots of Swedes having fun on the water in jet skis, recreational boats and on the shores of the many islands.  The Regal Princess passed through several channels so narrow that someone on the shore or on a dock could have easily swam out to the ship.  We passed one dock covered with swimmers and sunbathers where a boy sang out a Swedish folk song at the top of his lungs.  When he finished, he jumped off the dock and into the water.  It was pretty cute.  There were several jet skis that raced out from the small islands to play in our ship’s wake. 
 It took several hours for the ship to clear the islands and enter the Baltic Sea proper.  We had another impossibly perfect sunset, and even at 10pm, the air temperature was 70 degrees.  The weather we have experienced on this Baltic cruise has simply been amazing.  

It was Italian night in the dining room.  Janet had spaghetti and meat balls while Ben had Italian pot roast.  Both main meals were excellent, but the eggplant parmigiana appetizer was the highlight of the meal.  

We caught the early Showtime production of “Bravo”, featuring popular opera and show songs and a guest soprano.  We have seen this production on other Princess Cruises.  This production was a step fancier because the Regal Princess stage has more extensive video backdrops and stage effects, but the soprano tended to drift too much off the tempo of the operatic numbers ala American Idol.  Ben can’t stand that, especially with classical numbers, so that knocked this show down in ranking for him, but Janet enjoyed it just fine because she didn’t notice there was anything wrong with the soprano’s tempos. 

Ben popped open one of our bottles of champagne to enjoy while watching the sunset.  We watched Murder on the Orient Express in our stateroom, passing on “The Liar’s Game”, and called it an early night.  


Tomorrow is a sea day, and our last full day of this cruise.  So sad.  

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Thursday, July 12, 2018; Helsinki, Finland

Thursday, July 12, 2018- Helsinki, Finland

To view photos associated with this blog, please go to:
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The alarm woke us at 7:45AM and we found ourselves tied up to the dock in Helsinki.  The view out our balcony revealed a lot of construction going on.  The sky was blue with scattered clouds and the forecast was for partly cloudy with sun breaks and a high of 70 degrees.  

We had breakfast in the buffet and grabbed some extra egg McMuffins for lunch.  We had no trouble getting off the ship, but there was some potential for confusion as there were two areas where passengers could leave the cruise ship. One was a taxi stand and Hop-On Hop-Off bus area.  The other was through a temporary terminal building with a metal frame and fabric roof housing shops.  We initially stood around the taxi stand, but then asked a security guard if we were in the right place for SPB Tours.  Fortunately, he said they usually pick up passengers on the other side of the terminal building, so off we went through the giant tent and we then could see the people with the orange SPB Tours signs through the terminal building.  We boarded a full sized tour bus.  Our guide, Ireena, said there were 14 in our tour.  Janet and I each took a row of seats on each side of the bus to have both sides covered.  It’s hard to take pictures through bus windows when the bus is in motion, but at least we had some idea what buildings went with what narrative.  The guide used Vox radios both on the bus and off the bus.  We found that the earpieces fitted poorly and worked poorly, so we substituted our own noise reducing earbuds.  

We don’t generally get much during the driving parts of these bus tours, but our guide did point out places that we would later be able to walk around and explained some of the highlights.  

Oddly enough, the very first tourist sight leaving the cruise terminal is a huge pink statue of a cartoony man urinating into a flowerbed. 

Naughty Boy!

He is totally naked and stands at least 20’ high.  Apparently, this had been originally a temporary art exhibit erected across from the Presidential Palace, but it was so popular with the Fins that instead of scrapping it when the temporary exhibit expired, it was moved and made a permanent part of Helsinki’s waterfront attractions.  He’s called “The Naughty Boy”.  

We learned that the main industries in Finland include timber, wood products, shipyards producing the world’s leading ice-breakers, cell phones (Nokia), and Angry Birds.  The National game is ice hockey, and everyone ice skates because all the lakes and rivers freeze over six months of the year.  There are islands that are served by ferries during the summer, and buses during the winter, although global warming is changing some of that.  

Our first stop was at Helsinki’s Senate Square, location of the “White Church” or Helsinki Cathedral. There is a large fountain of Alexander II in the center of the square. 
Alexander II and the "White Church"

We learned of Finland’s history of possession by Russia, Sweden and Denmark over history.  Ethnically they are closest to Estonians, with whom they share dialects of a nearly common language although some words have almost comically different meanings.  For example, marriage in one language means struggle in the other language.  With a few months of practice, Estonians and Finlanders can understand each other, but both languages are very hard to learn as they are neither related to Romance languages or Russian.  They are possibly related to Hungarian, though.  Children in Finland are taught to speak Finnish, Swedish and English.  The security guard we encounter in the cruise ship port spoke perfect English.  

When the Russians controlled Finland, it was very poor and didn’t really have any resources that the Russians wanted. They also couldn’t speak Finnish, and the Finns didn’t care to learn to speak Russian either.  When the Finns campaigned for independence, the Russians were being distracted by their deal with McKinley to sell Alaska to the Americans and the Bolsheviks, so they basically let Finland go with out much ado.  

The Government Palace and University of Helsinki, and Sederholm House- the oldest building of central Helsinki dating from 1757 all ring the square.  

The Helsinki Cathedral is a beautiful building with a white exterior topped by several green patina’d copper domes built in 1830-1852.  It is sometimes referred to “The White Church” colloquially, but was also known as St. Nicholas’ Church prior to the independence of Finland in 1917.  It sits atop an impressive set of stairs overlooking the square.  We opted to admire it from a distance and descend towards the waterfront to visit Market Square and Old Market Hall, with their outdoor and indoor stands of local and tourist fare. 

The most interesting finds were the seafood and meat stands in Old Market Hall with all manner of smoked and fresh fish and meat.  The smells of the smoked fish and meats were tantalizing.  Out in the open market, there are dozens of stalls selling beautifully knitted wool sweaters, scarves and capes, but what caught our eyes were the fruit stands with racks of colorful and fresh berries.  

Nearby is a Helsinki's version of their "Little Mermaid", only she looks more like a French prostitute.  She is called Havis Amanda, and it is said that if you splash your face from one of her fountains and shout "Rakastaa, Rakastaa, Rakastaa!", it's the Helsinki equivalent of taking Viagra.

Havis Amanda. "Rakastaa, Rakastaa Rakastaa!"

All too soon, we had to head back to our bus which took us past the central train station and then out to Seurasaaren Island, which is on a small island in an idyllic park setting.  The island is a park and museum with a collection of historic structures gathered from all around Finland as examples of the architectural styles and lifestyles of Finlanders dating to the 1700’s.  The park was founded in 1889.  They had a complete farmstead  from the 1820’s from western Finland to show how settlers lived in the time.  There were buildings in a rough figure 8 configuration with residential structures around one yard, and animal stalls, workshop spaces and storage around the other yard.  Some of the museum staff were dressed in period costume and they had period wooden furniture.  One interesting display was a rack on the wall containing a row of spoons.  In those days, they didn’t have many plates or bowls, so each individual had their own spoon that they used to eat from a communal pot with the food. There were also spinning wheels and looms reminiscent of the Rumpelstiltskin tale.  The farmstead had the feeling of a fort in the old west. 
Bear Proof locker

Little Cabin

In Lieu of a China Cabinet.  Grab your spoon and dig in!

There were also windmills, waterwheels, a church, and many examples of storage and residential structures hewn from logs.  The most interesting was a food storage building built atop a pole to make it bear proof.  It looked like a giant fairy tale bird house.  The whole exhibit was in a very peaceful wooded island setting with ducks, geese and swans swimming about and brown squirrels scampering about.  There was a wide variety of trees and plants, as well as glacier scoured granite outcroppings like Goose Rock on Whidbey Island.  They had more hewn timber structures than even Jack City.

One of the more modern exhibits was of a traditional Finnish telephone booth, something that disappeared from the landscape shortly after Nokia became a leader in cell phone technology and Finland became the first country to have seamless nationwide cellular coverage in the world.
Traditional Finnish Telephone Booth
 

We were then treated to Finnish coffee and cinnamon rolls, which were very delicious and uniquely rolled and speckled with rough sugar crystals.  Our little coffee break was very peaceful and relaxing.  It was also hard to top the perfect weather we managed to have while we were in Finland.  The temperature was a perfect 70 degrees with scattered clouds and just enough light breeze to be refreshing.

Alas, it was time to leave the island paradise and get back on the bus, which took us by a park with a monument to the Finnish composer Jean Sibelius.  In the center of the park is a unique sculpture made of hundreds of pipes, such that when a storm whips up the winds, it plays itself like a natural organ. We, unfortunately didn’t get out of the bus, and had to content ourselves with a view from the street curb. 
Helsinki Sibelius Monument

Our last stop was at a landmark called the Church of the Rock, which was literally blasted and carved out of a granite outcropping near the top of a hill.  The outside isn’t much to look at, but the inside is a masterpiece of Scandinavian design and beauty.  The wooden ceiling is suspended above the center of the church by ribs radiating out like the ribs of a giant mushroom.  The effect is quite stunningly natural and beautiful.  The acoustic inside are also amazing. There was a woman playing some sort of horizontal harp without amplification, and it filled the church with heavenly sounds.  

Then it was back to the ship, with plenty of time before the all aboard time.  We ran into a couple that had taken the SPB-Tours “Deluxe Hermitage” tour, who corroborated Svetlana’s description of what touring the main collection in the Hermitage at this time of year and with 6 cruise ships and the FIFA World Cup in town would be like.  They were not satisfied with their experience of feeling like they were herded shoulder to shoulder from one room or wing to another, rushed along so that they could only just glimpse the most important pieces in the vast collection that was both overwhelming and underwhelming at the same time.  They felt exhausted, rather than enlightened by the experience.  There were tons of stairs, poor ventilation, and cramped hard to find bathrooms.  We were glad we chose instead to concentrate on the Impressionists since we have never really cared for pre-renaissance artwork, of which the Hermitage main collection is mostly composed, despite their religious or cultural significance.  While the pre-renaissance artists were struggling to invent perspective, proportion and lighting nuances, in our age of photography and instagram, the impressionists were working on capturing light, movement and even emotions on their canvases, which we can still relate to.  As for being in the Winter Palace, the exhibit halls were cramped, dark and stuffy.  Catherine’s palace was really the place to experience the opulence and excesses of the Emperors and Czars of Imperial Russia.  

We were back early enough for a spot of tea before afternoon trivia.  We played with Dave from Virginia, as well as Micha and Gabby, whom we had met at the Disney trivia yesterday.  We got beat by 1/2 point.  They did have some very unique questions including what, if used, was taxed in England until 1862 (soap), and what was the name of the cat in “Meet the Parents” starring Robert DeNiro (Jinxie).  

We got changed into our formal wear for the last time this cruise and enjoyed a good lobster dinner this cruise. The lobster was definitely much better than what had been served on the Island Princess during our South America circumnavigation, and the waiter had no problem with providing us with a double portion.  The Chocolate Journey dessert was also a hit.  It was a pistachio chocolate mousse creation. 
Mmmm, Chocolate Journey😋

Dinner was followed by a Captain’s circle reception for Platinum and Elite members.  We learned that there were about 300 platinum members and 100 elite members on board.  The most experienced cruisers on this itinerary had only 500 cruising days under their belt. On our South America Cruise, there were 1500 platinum and elite members, more than half the total passengers, and the most experienced cruiser there had over 1500 days.  But we got free martinis, and to top off the event, we managed to win a drawing for a bottle of champagne.
 

The Showtime presentation was a pair of Scottish musicians, The MacDonald Brothers, who put on a fine show of singing, fiddling, and accordion playing with a high energy and entertaining show.  

We had another spectacular sunset, accented by a Costa cruise ship that our ship was slowly passing as the sun burned it’s way into the horizon accented with purples, oranges, and blues that are out of this world. You only see these kinds of sunsets at sea.  Twilight hangs around until well after midnight at this northern latitude.  


We turn our clocks back an hour tonight and arrive in Stockholm, Sweden tomorrow. We have our last SPB tour as well.  

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Wednesday, July 11, 2018- St. Petersburg, Day 2

Wednesday, July 11, 2018- St. Petersburg Day 2

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We got to sleep in a bit this morning as we were told that getting through immigrations would not be an ordeal since the Russians already have our passport and visa information.  We had breakfast in the buffet and grabbed our excursion gear, which included sandwiches from the International Cafe, refrigerated overnight, for lunch.  

There was no need to get a disembarkation ticket this morning.  We literally just walked off the ship and through customs and immigration, taking just enough time to scan our passports and then wave us through.  This morning our Chinese contingent was on time, so we were able to leave on schedule.  

Susan had requested the opportunity to see the St. Petersburg subway.  Svetlana obliged, figuring out a route that would take us to the most renowned station without delaying our itinerary too much.  She provided us with tokens and instructions on how not to get tripped up by the escalators or targeted by pick pockets.  

Then we piled out of the van and headed down into the subway at Narvskaya Station and descended deep into the bowels of the earth on the fast escalators.  There were people running down the escalators to our left as we carefully stayed to the right side, tightly gripping the moving handrail and mindful of who was around us.  Pleasantly enough, St. Petersburg’s subways did not smell at all like New York’s, or Chicago’s subways, and didn’t have rats, trash or homeless people laying about.  They were clean, well lit, well ventilated, and clearly a point of local pride.  The walls were largely marble with elaborate bronze fixtures, and many sculptures dating back to the Soviet era of the proletariat carrying about in their roles to glorify the Mother State. 






The subway cars sped along with surprising speed.  The cars were not air conditioned, but with the windows opened along the roofline, it was comfortable inside the cars.  We popped out of the cars at Avtovo Station, with its granite and jasper floor, marble walls, bronze chandeliers, and some amazing mosiac tile panels proclaiming victory against the Germans after WWII.  It was almost like being in a museum, except for the trains that arrived and departed every 2 minutes like clockwork.  We managed not to loose anyone on the return trip, and then hopped into the van for a quick trip to the Faberge Egg Museum in the heart of St. Petersburg.  

The Faberge Egg Museum is a private collection of a dozen Faberge Eggs, crafted for the imperial family of Russia.  All of them had an associated story of how they managed to avoid falling into the hands of the Nazi forces, who pillaged and plundered anything of value that they came across.  This collection was notable for possessing the very first Faberge Egg, which was a fairly simple appearing enameled egg, containing a golden sphere, which in turn contained a golden chicken. I guess that fits with the Russian tradition of Matryoshka nesting dolls.  Subsequent eggs became more elaborate and contained new surprises, including tiny jeweled replicas of Imperial carriages complete with moving parts and hundreds of diamonds, and animatronic miniaturized birds that flapped their wings and sang.  Others had clocks and exquisitely painted miniature portraits.  The enamel on the eggs had amazing 3 dimensional depth that photographs can’t capture.  Svetlana was able to give us a bit of history of each of the eggs, and explained the progression of Faberge’s work within the framework of the history of the Russian imperial family, wars and other events.  She could have written a PhD thesis on Faberge Eggs.  







The Faberge Egg museum also contained many other varied products of Faberge’s hands and mind. It is a fascinating collection of amazing enamel, gold, jewels and semiprecious carved stones ranging from snuff boxes, photo frames, clocks, opera glasses, figurines, manicure sets and even a oral thermometer. 



The museum had tightly regulated traffic flow through the exhibits but we had plenty of time to admire the fantastic pieces.  It was certainly a highlight of our St. Petersburg tour.  The museum also had nice toilets and was comfortably air conditioned and modern inside.  It was, in itself, situated in a urban palace with imperial architecture and no shortage of marble and elaborate wood and stone flooring.  

Our next stop was at the Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, with it’s twin gold gilt spires that reach 400 ft into the sky.  This elaborate cathedral is the location of the Royal Tombs of the Romanov Imperial House.  Nearly all Russian emperors were buried here, with the exception of Peter II and John IV.  





The Cathedral is situated within the walls of a historic fortress.  Outside the walls of the fortress is a military museum complete with Cold War mobile ballistic missile launchers that Kim Jong-Un would love to get his hands on.  There are also a few Soviet era submarines scattered about the waterfront and even on some back streets of St. Petersburg.  At least one is a waterfront museum, while others are high and dry in random public spaces, not unlike the random Vietnam era fighter jets that scatter the American countryside in county and city parks. 

We had a lunch break where Svetlana introduced us to Russian Fast food in the form of Chebureks, which are a deep fried dumpling/calzone filled with savory goodness. Our International Cafe sandwiches and bananas quickly got relegated to a secondary snack.  

Our next stop was quite a ways into the countryside to Catherine’s Palace, which is quite a spread. It’s easy to see why the peasants and proletariat felt the need to overthrow the Royals because this place is really, really excessive.  You could probably land a small airplane in the plaza between the front of the Palace and the fence to the gardens. 





There are halls covered in so much gold leaf that it’s blindingly bright if the curtains are open when the sun is out.  The climax of this tour is a room that is covered with real amber, including portraits created with mosaics of different colors of amber.  This room is actually a replica built with real amber because the Nazi’s stole the real room, hid it in a church that got bombed out, and then it all disappeared without a trace.  There are exhibits on the succession of Romanovs complete with furniture, clothing, and other personal items associated with each Romanov.  The family tree is quite a study, so there are a lot of rooms with lots of artifacts and displays.  

Our driver and guide got us back to the ship with time to spare. As we sailed out of St. Petersburg, the caught sight of Lakhta Center, which at 1516ft is the tallest building in Europe, and the 13th tallest building in the world.
Lakhta Center is the tallest building in Europe

As we sailed out of St Petersburg and Neva lake, we passed through an unusual movable sea barrier, designed to hold back storm surges to protect St. Petersburg from flooding.  It was like a pair of giant blast doors that can swing shut over the main shipping channel from the Baltic Sea into Neva Lake and St. Petersburg.  

We did find our room decorated by Princess in honor of Ben’s 59th birthday.  We celebrated by having dinner at Sabatini’s premium restaurant.  It wasn’t a great dinner, but they sure had an unusual Chocolate Journey dessert, served in a glass bowl that looked like a terrarium with a large chocolate egg balanced on a brownie, floating in chocolate mousse.  When you cracked into the large chocolate egg, there was a smaller chocolate and hazelnut egg floating inside on chocolate pudding.  The big surprise was that the smaller chocolate hazelnut egg contained chocolate ice cream!  Practically a Faberge Egg dessert, complete with surprises.  I can’t imagine how they managed to create that!
Chocolate Journey "Faberge Egg"

The Showtime presentation in the Princess Theatre was a production called Fiero.  It was hard to imagine what that was going to be, but when you entered the theater, the stage was decorated like the Teatro Zinzanni or Cirque du Soleil.  After most of the audience was seated, jesters and clowns started running and tumbling up and down the aisles, squeaking and laughing, teasing audience members with their antics.  Then the stage lights came on and the show began like a circus act.  The plot revolved loosely around the daughter of the Emcee falling in love with a Carnie in the circus, but they really put on a spectacular production with songs by Lady Gaga, Bruno Mars, and other recent hit artists, mixed with incredible stage effects, dancing and singing.  They managed to bring both a roller coaster ride and Ferris wheel onto the stage as part of the show.  They really amped up the WOW factor in their production values, with sets, costumes and effects to equal anything in a real Broadway show, but compacted into just 45 action packed minutes.  I would have to say it was equally spectacular and entertaining as their other show “Magic To Do” that wowed us on an earlier cruise.  

We finished up the night by watching the movie “Game Night” with Jason Bateman and Rachael McAdams, which was a pretty funny and entertaining movie.  


Tomorrow we arrive in Helsinki, Finland, where we have another SPBTours.com tour booked.  It’ll be a relative short day at port with the ship leaving by 4pm, so we’ll see how that tour goes.