20221218 Sunday December 18, 2022- Drake Passage Southbound

Our room steward was exactly right regarding things getting a bit bumpier during the night.  We raised the blinds to see what was happening when we could suddenly feel the pitching and yawing of the ship at 2AM.  The swells were up to 12’ and whitecaps were frothing all around, but we had seen much worse when we sailed around super typhoon Saola on the Diamond Princess.  Nothing got knocked over.  We returned to bed with the blind still up since it was dark.  But by 3:30am, it was too bright to sleep, so we lowered the blind.

For the most part, we slept like stones, relieved that our entire party was now safely ensconced on the Viking Polaris and we would be able to celebrate Christmas on Antarctica after all.  We were awakened by Ciara, who was in search of scopolamine patches because she was starting to feel a little nauseated.  

We had a quick breakfast in the buffet (World Cafe) and then headed down to the ship’s “Garage” where the Zodiacs, Special Operations Boats (SOB’s), rescue craft and the submarines are stored.  People who wish to use the kayaks have to prove proficiency in transferring from the Zodiacs into kayaks.  

After a quick lunch in the buffet, it was time to pass biosecurity checks of all our outer garment layers and trade the expedition gear in our closets for properly sized ones.  They crew have to inspect all garments to ensure there are no foreign seeds or soil that could contaminate Antarctica.  We had brought our extremely warm raccoon skin hats, but real fur is strictly forbidden in Antarctica.  We will be fine with the balaclavas and wool knit caps that we have and were approved for Antarctica.  We were issued nice Helly Hansen wind and waterproof parkas with an insulated liner, which are ours to keep at the end of the expedition.  I guess it’s good advertising for Viking Expeditions.  We were also issued water and wind proof Helly Hansen overpants, which we can use, but are not ours to keep.  There are also nice waterproof over-the-calf length insulated boots that we can use, but not take home.  All the gear looks brand new.  The coats and pants still have all the tags on them.  Perhaps they plan on laundering and reconditioning everything at the end of the Antarctica season.  

The ship had a welcome reception to introduce us to the ship’s officers, but we had no idea that we were seated next to Torsten Hagen, the Owner of Viking Cruises.  He is apparently taking vacation with a couple of his close friends.  We guess the crew will be on it’s best behavior.  We wonder if he is aboard this first sailing of the Viking Polaris following the fatal rogue wave accident to prove to the world that the ship is safe and fully operational.  They did urge patience and understanding about Antarctica being unlike other cruises because of the unpredictability of weather and seas. The ports of call described on the website are a general guideline and are subject to change.  As a prime example, instead of calling on Danco Island first, we will be exploring Fournier Bay on Anvers Island.  There will be no landing because it is bounded by glacial cliffs, but is sheltered enough to hopefully be able to launch all planned activities (Zodiac rides, SOB rides, kayaking) to view wildlife and glaciers.  

We had our first dinner as a family in the Restaurant, the full service restaurant.  Ciara and Tom got to regale us with their 48hr struggle to make it to the cruise.  They had earned themselves a bit of notoriety around the ship, but were personally welcomed on board by the ship’s captain, who is surprisingly a woman.  As we were getting up to leave, Mr. Hagen and his party came into the Restaurant and sat down just 30’ from our table.  The staff had specially prepared his table with caviar canapés. 

Ciara and Tom discovered that since boarding, more excursion options had opened up besides the ones on the Viking website pre-departure.  So we were able to sign up for some additional Zodiac landings and SOB rides.  

Tomorrow will be our first port of call in Antarctica, and a real test of our clothing and equipment, as well as our ability to embark and disembark the Zodiacs.